NATT*** (New Annapurna Trekking Trail) Painting Mission 2011
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| NATT*** main trail |
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| NATT*** side trail |
Next day, we continued our job, marking and finding the latest trail changing condition to Ghermuphant (1175m) through lower Ngadi – Ngadi bazaar – Bahudanda, between has not really big changes, you still walk on the old trail!
In 20 minutes you will be dropped to Syange, where you connect on the bumpy dirt road, but not any traffic now, because of many part of the road has washed by monsoon. Then took hike on the same road to Ghatte khola 40 minutes after Jagat. Where you again see the NATT sign as red/white, which leads you to Chamje (1400m) along the old trail. At the end of Chamje again the trail joins at the main trail, hike 5 minutes on then you will split to the right side trail from the last tea shop, climb down to the Marsyangdi rive and cross the suspension bridge, and climb up to Sattale – lower Tal – upper Tal village (1700m). 45 – 60 minutes beyond Tal we crossed a suspension bridge over Marsyangdi again and joined on the main trail, continued to Karte Manang. Between Tal and Karte Manang the local people were carving the cliffs for the alternative trekking trail on the left bank of Marsyangdi instead of crossing suspension bridge before Khotre. According to the people of Tal and Karte it will be accomplished by the end of November 2011. Then continued hiking toward Dharapani another 40 minutes, o/n there.
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| A Thakali child at Chimang, Mustang |
At Bagarchhap we joined on the broad dirt road without any traffic, continued hiking via Danaque (2210m) – Temang (2630m) – Thanchouk (2615m) – Koto (2600m) – Chame (2670m), where you can visit the old little gompa, when you compared other gompas, its not that impressive but nice one. About 20 – 30 minutes beyond Chame you will reach to Talekhu village (2710m), at the end, trail turns to the right, where you can see the NATT red/white signs, for 3 km fantastic hike through the pine forest, you will soon join on the main trail and reach to Bhratang (2800m). Still you will follow the road up to Dhukur Pokhara (dove pond) 3060m, before reaching there; also you can see some red/white sign.
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| A Gurung Woman in Lamjung |
Still follow the red/white sign along the beautiful trail to Ghyaru (3670m). Upper Pisang to Ghyaru would take about 3 hrs, more than 2 hrs; you should climb the zig-zag up hill brings you till Ghyaru, which helps you very much to acclimatize for Thorong la. At Ghyaru there are three basic lodges and a nice gompa**.
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| View along the way to Thorong la 5416m |
You will join the wide let’s say dirt road at Mungji, continue walking 10 – 15 minutes further and you will see the red/white sign on the electric pole, which leads you to have a real view of Braka! You’re at Braka, if you are not that tired you may visit the most beautiful Braka monastery*** in the evening, or if you’re tired in the morning you must visit it! (You must not miss it to visit), before visiting it make sure at your hotel about the key person, who will open it for you. Never forget to donate the gompa and tip for who will open it and show you.
Depends on your flexibility of time, you can make day hike either Ice lake (4640m) or Milarepa cave (4100m) on the opposite direction of Braka village. We already painted as blue/white sign from the suspension Bridge of Braka to till beyond the fields on the right side of Marsyangdi rive, and starts pine forest. The owner of Braka bakery promised us that he/his company will accomplish the rest painting job up to the Cave Milarepa and Ice Lake as well. In my experienced both trip or at least one of those to make is wisdom for well acclimatization and breath taking views of Mountains and the landscapes, especially Ice Lake.
Further Manang (3570m) you may also sleep only one night if you already spent one or two nights at Braka. Still if you got plenty of time you can visit praken gompa, Chhyankur view point, Khanshar etc.
We followed the main trail via Gunsang (3900m) – Yak Kharka (4018m) – Ledar (4200m) – Phedi (4470m) – Hight camp (4800m). After high camp to Muktinath-Ranipauwa (3800m) via Thorong la (5416m) with awesome mountain view of Annapurna range, Chulus, Khatung kang, Yakawakang, Dhaulagiri and many more including blue sky!! We had also seen many beautiful flowers until 5360m!
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| With Dhaulagiri background at Chimang |
From the Lubra pass we turned toward right direction and kept marking blue/white till Jharkot village below Ranipauwa, so to go Lubra either from Jharkot or Ranipauwa, both trails worth for you. Around Ranipauwa – Muktinath you can make a beautiful day hike, Jharkot, Purang, visiting Muktinath temple, nunnery gompa, burning flame gompa*** etc.
According to the previous plan with ACAPOP (Annapurna Conservation Area Project Office Pokhara) on 2011.08.22 we met Mr. Rishi Ram Dhakal the representing person of ACAP to work with us for NATT mission. It was so good to see him and work together. From 2011.08.23 we started marking together from the northern entrance gate of Ranipauwa, where you can see the sign post of ACAP written Chhongkhar, but every local people says as Chhongur. At the left of the gate you can see red/white signs on the rocks and on the ACAP sign post’s pole as well.
You may follow the NATT sign and take easy walk to Chhongur Tibetan styled beautiful village, there is a beautiful gompa**, old houses with red and white vertical striped on its wall and nice people with their colorful culture. Then the next village is Jhong (3700m) 30 minutes on foot. At Jhong there is a beautiful gompa** with the great view of Thorong la, Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri Mountain ranges, Tilicho peak, Yakawakang, Khatungkang, Thapa peak and other many including upper kaligandaki valley view! With the gompa, there is a guest house also with max 8 beds, so if some one wants meditation to do, definitely can stay at this guest house. There are other two private guest houses in Jhong, rather basic but very nice to stay.
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| Butterfly at Tanki Manang |
As a day trip you can make toTiri village and gompa**. Tiri is still belong upper Mustang but recently you’re allowed to visit in for the day and come back to Kagbeni spending over night. At Tiri you can get noodle soup, daal bhaat for lunch at the white big building next to prayer wheels stupa near by the public water fountain. For you, it would be very interesting to see the monk at Tiri gompa**, he is also Amchi the Tibetan doctor with his farmacy! For that he studied for 9 yrs in Darjeeling.
From Kagbeni we made to old Jomsom via, Eklebhatti, where, at the suspension bridge you can see two kinds of NATT signs; red/white sign leads you directly to Jomsom on the motor able broad dirt windy road. With blue/white signs we followed the beautiful trail via Pakling – Phalyak – Dhakarjhong – Batase Bhanjyang (The Windy pass 3435m) and dropped to Jomsom near by wooden bridge over Kaligandaki River. Along this trail the landscapes, untouched Tibetan culture, beautiful villages, breath taking Himalayan views, the southern part of upper Mustang and the whole view of lower Mustang!!
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| A bee is sucking nectar above 5100m altd! |
In the evening of 2011.08.25 and the morning of 2011.08.26 we got an opportunities meeting to Mr. Santosh Sherchan Thakali, The ACAP Officer in Jomsom, Mr. Krishna Gurung Tourism Assistant Officer, Mr. Bel Bahadur Pun Tourism Assistant. We exchanged our experiences and discussed a lot about that how to maintain the alternative trekking trail in better and cheaper way and promote tourism for Annapurna area for the first step and then for the whole country in future. Every one was very happy with that meeting; rather the idea was new for them or new use for experiment in Nepal. But for Mr. Andrees de Ruiter wasn’t new, he brought this concept already in 2007 to Nepal for the first time! And Mr. Thakali and his team want to use this system for the whole of the country as trekking trail marking sign!
From Jomsom Mr. Thakali sent another ACAP representative with us. He was Mr. Bel Bahadur Pun was as fantastic as Mr. Rishi Ram Dhakal. We really enjoyed marking trail with them.
Again we started marking from old Jomsom near by the wooden bridge over the Kaligandaki River. At the ACAP sign post’s pole painted with red/white sign leading to Thini village – Dhumba lake with many fishes in – Dhumba village – descended at Chhairo the Tibetan settlement – turned to the right, crossed the suspension bridge and entered to Marpha, to get into the middle village of Marpha would take 15 – 20 minutes.
At Chhairo (Tibetan settlement) also being built a hotel with 14 beds and restaurant, they said by November 2011 it will be completed.
Next day you should cross the suspension bridge over Kaligandaki, take a walk 30 – 40 minutes further will reach at the trail junction, where shows to right directly to Chokhopani and on the left making detour through the Chimang the beautiful village with wonderful Dhaulagiri range view! It would be one hour different so you can decide yourself when you are at the junction.
When you come to Chokhopani the lady Usha Restaurant can make soup noodles and daal bhat for you. Then you will start climbing about 190m through the beautiful pine forest newly built trail, awesome views of Dhaulagiri (8167m) and it’s Ice Fall! And Tukuche peak (7920m) lying before you!! Follow the red/white sign till Sauru. At the moment we were there between Sauru and Serthung about maximum 500 meters not that good trail, but the Mr. Thakali and his team promised us to maintain it as soon as possible before the peak season. At least they also promised to put temporary wooden bridge until the cliff is not carved. So make sure at Sauru regarding the latest trail improvement, other wise at Sauru you should cross the long bridge to Larjung and take the broad dirt road till Kokhethanti. But for us was possible to cross the 500 meters difficult trail, we did it and came to Kokhethanti along the left trail of Kaligandaki river.
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| Buckwheat field in Manang 3570m |
From Kokhethanti we marked as red/white to Titi lake – Taklung – Kunjo (had dal bhat) - Chhoyo – crossed the bridge over Kaligandaki and turned right to Lete/Kalopani. The new trail below Kalopani and Lete is wonderful into the lush pine forest with vistas! We had to mark as 4 exit points in Kalopani and Lete to be connected on that trail below. Because we wanted every one happy of Kalopani and Lete. The first (I) exit point is between Mountain View Lodge and Kalopani Guest House, the (II) exit point is just after Kalopani Guest House, right opposite of Angel Guest House, the (III) exit point is between Kalopani and Lete, where you can see the red/white sign at the public water fountain and the last exit point without number is at Lete also at the water fountain too.
(I rather would suggest you to do Titi Lake and around as day trip, leave all your back packs in Kalopani or Lete wherever you stayed).
Below Lete village you get to connect on the dirt motor able road, walk few minutes further along and soon you will cross a suspension bridge the middle one, northern concreted bridge is for the motor able road and the southern one is too old, anytime it might collapse! (Though it does not seem that old being collapse soon).
Before and after the middle suspension bridge of Lete khola you will see the red/white signs. After crossing the bridge you will immediately cross the motor able road and enter to the alternative pristine lush NATT*** forest trek starts! Wow, about 1:40 hrs you will forget yourself! Because it’s so beautiful and pleasant being inside the fresh forest!!
You will again join on the motor able dirt road at Ghumaune, take a walk 5 minutes along the road and again turn to the right exactly from the Green Forest Guest House, have a look red/white sign, another 40 minutes in the forest and connect on the road at Kaiku village, 1.5 km on the road and will arrive in Ghasa (2125m).
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| Chhongur Tibetan styled village Mustang |
At the end of lower Ghasa you will see the red/white sign and follow them till to the suspension bridge over Kaligandaki, before crossing it you see the red/white sign and arrow showing Tatopani, continue to Pairothaplo as directed – upper and lower Kopchepani, then still the red/white sign along further, the trail again splits at lower Kopchepani leading up to Bhalebas 1750m (90 meters above of lower Kopchepani). Now you are descended to Ghadpar village, where, turning to the right and cross the suspension bridge over Kaligandaki and be connected on the motor able dirt road and entering into the beautiful upper and lower Dana villages. But we continued on the left river bank through Narchyang bensi and other villages with red/white marking, our first chapter of NATT*** mission ended just 15 minutes before Tatopani, where, there is a suspension bridge and we had to cross it and re-join on the road. You can see at the bridge also we marked as red/white signs and put arrow showing Jomsom!!
Over night at The Dhaulagiri Lodge of Tatopani, in the morning my partner and I woke up at 5:00 AM, decided to take hot bath with natural spring! So went down to the hot spring, no one woke up!! We were shouting to some one and allowed taking hot bath, but it was too hot to sit in! Because we were the first clients, did not mix cold water from the pipe, we tried to mix it and sit in some time with the frozen bottle of coke! Still too hot for us! We did have enough time to wait till it gets normal so we left for our Lodge, after breakfast grabbed a jeep and drove to Beni, jumped into the next bus for Pokhara and arrive in afternoon.
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| Kagbeni Mustang |
Itinerary:
DAY 01: KATHMANDU OR POKHARA - BESISHAHAR 820M/TREK TO BHULBHULE 840M (9 ½ - 6 ½ HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS BETWEEN BESISHAHAR AND BHULBHULE.
You drove either from Kathmandu or Pokhara, if you’ve reached to Besishahar in normal time, same day you can trek to Bhulbhule. About 45 minutes beyond Besishahar we started marking red/white as the first of this mission! From the dirt motor able road we turned to right and crossed the suspension bridge, then Lete village, Mul bazaar, Simalchaur and reached to Bhulbhule. I highly recommend to every one not miss it to hike! Really beautiful with mixture people and culture.
DAY 02: BHULBHULE - BAHUNDANDA 1310m (4 - 5 HRS, IN SLOW PACE), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
Today all day long you will hike along the left bank of Marsyangdi river via lower Ngadi with some lodges, villages and rice fields, then Ngadi bazaar, old Ngadi and ascend up to Bahundanda. Just before reaching Bahundanda is not so easy climbing, whole year around 30 degrees Celsius! But when you’re on the top will forget every thing you did, because so beautiful views of surrounding landscapes, farming land terraces, Nepali typical villages and some mountains etc.
DAY 03: BAHUNDANDA - CHAMJE 1400m (5 - 6 HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
First 45 minutes to descend to the rice fields, walk at similar level altitude till Ghermphant 1175m, bit climb down and cross the bridge of Syange, climb up to Jagat 1300m, still ascend to Chamje and o/n there.
DAY 04: CHAMJE - DHARAPANI 1925m (5 - 5 HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
Few minutes on the main trail in the beginning, turn to the right after the last tea shop, descend to the river, cross suspension bridge, Sattale, lower and upper Tal, Kotre and Karte Manang reach to Dharapani.
DAY 05: DHARAPANI - THANCHOUK 2615m (5 - 6 HRS)
You may take via Thonche village, trail divides from 3 sisters guest house leading toward Manaslu, cross the suspension bridge, turn to left and walk along the left bank of Marsyangdi, cross another suspension bridge below Bagarchhap, follow the main trail up to Thanchouk.
DAY 06: THANCHOUK - BHRATANG 2800m (5 HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
To night rather basic lodges to stay, but nicer than so luxury one! Also there are only two lodges.
DAY 07: BHRATANG - UPPER PISANG 3330m (5 HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
Today’s trek also very pleasant, as crossing bridges, forests, villages, fields etc.
DAY 08: UPPER PISANG - GHYARU 3670m (3 - 4 HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
First one hour you will walk at the similar level of altitude through pastures and pine forest till suspension bridge then you start climbing zigzag trail up to Ghyaru village. Gyaru is very beautiful to stay with breathtaking mountains views of Annapurna II just in front of you and many more mountains, an other hand if you slept over night there will be perfect acclimatization already for further days.
DAY 09: GHYARU - BRAKA 3480m (5 - 6 HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
Beautiful hike up to Ngawal village, then you can take a walk via Julu hamlet, which is most beautiful NATT trail to trek! Though it bit detours your way, but no problem because it deserves all your diligence!
DAY 10: DAY TRIP:-
(a) Either up to Ice Lake (4640m) with breathtaking Mountain View, observe Marsyangdi valley and its beautiful landscapes! Other advantage of making this trip is well acclimatizing for Thorong la.
(b) Or, you can do the Milarepa cave (4100m), which is also very good idea to make good acclimatization, walking into the lush pine forest, being closer to the Annapurna III (5555m), visit the caves where Milarepa did meditation! See the monk and have cup of tea, normally he may offer it for every guest who visits him. (blue/white signs till beyond the fields, opposite of Braka)
DAY 11: BRAKA - MANANG 3570m (25 - 30 minutes)
When you reached to Manang do reserve the rooms, have lunch and either visit the praken gompa above Manang village or hike up to Chhyankur view point opposite of Manang. That makes perfect acclimatization for you.
DAY 12: MANANG - CHURI LADAR 4200m (6 - 6 HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
If you do feel not that well because of high altitude you can stay at Yak Kharka (4018m), then next day you can make to Thorong Phedi.
DAY 13: CHURI LEDAR - HIGH CAMP 4800m (5 HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
Depends how do you feel? If feelings or symptoms are good yet, you easily can go up to high camp, but if anything doubt able with your condition, you should stay at Thorong Phedi (4470m).
HIGH CAMP - MUKTINATH RANIPAUWA 3800m (9 HRS) VIA THORONG LA 5416m, RED/WHITE SIGNS.
You may start at high camp around 6 – 7 o’clock in the morning, do not hurry up, be careful yourself, take your time and pace! Then you will enjoy and success it an easily! I’ve seen many people do hurry up early morning, that’s why more possibilities getting hypothermia and frostbite, when you start too early!
DAY 15: DAY TRIP AROUND MUKTINATH AND RANIPAUWA.
Visit the temple and natural burning flame gompa, hike down to Jharkot village via Purang etc.
DAY 16: RANIPAUWA - KAGBENI VILLAGE 2800m (6 - 7 HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
You should take a hike through Chhongur, Jhong & Putak the Tibetan styled beautiful villages with its art, culture, religion and do not forget to visit the gompas**. (many red/white signs).
DAY 17: DAY TRIP TO TIRI VILLAGE AND GOMPA (2900 - 3050m).
You may take 4 – 5 hrs, including visiting gompa, village, lunch break etc. (no signs, because it’s easy to find the way).
DAY 18: KAGBENI - OLD JOMSOM 2720m (7 - 8 HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
(a) (The trail splits from the bridge of Eklebhatti) via Pakling – Phalyak – Dhakarjhong – Batase bhanjyang (Windy pass 3435m) - old Jomsom would take 7 – 8 hrs, in my opinion every one won’t able to do in one day. Still over Phalyak village you may get to eat and sleep as home stay, they normally cook for you daal bhat, noodle soups, potatoes boiled and teas. And recently it seems being built some new buildings as well. At the center of the village you should see the red/white signs, because the ACAP sign post is showing wrong direction by the way. In 30 minutes you will be at Dhakarjhong village also very beautiful, continue to the pass with breathtaking views of Nilgiris, Tilicho peak, Thorong la, Dhaulagiris, Tukuche peak, southern part of upper Mustang & whole lower Mustang valley view with its gorgeous landscapes! Whoever able to walk should not miss it!! So beautiful and untouched nature and culture. (blue/white signs).
(b) Directly to Jomsom on the broad dirt windy road! But it takes faster, about 4 hrs. (Red/white in the beginning only).
DAY 19: OLD JOMSOM - MARPHA 2660m (6 - 7 HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
You should look the ACAP sign post near by Jimmy Hendricks’s hotel at the left bank of Kaligandaki or the wooden bridge, the trail leading toward Thini - Dhumba Lake - Dhumba village – descends at Chhairo the Tibetan settlement- turn to Marpha – cross the suspension bridge over Kaligandaki – enter to the beginning of Marpha.
DAY 20: MARPHA - KOKHETHANTI 2505m (6 - 8 HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
You turn to Chhairo again, 45 minutes further you will see the sign post showing directly to Chokhopani and Chimang. You may skip Chimang because of it makes your way one hour detour, but you must not forget that village is most beautiful with scenic mountains, landscapes, wonderful people, colorful culture etc.. If you are there in monsoon, wow green fields with flowers, apple garden with juicy fruits!
After Chokhopani you have to ascend 190 meters, but you won’t feel that much because it gradually climbs through the pine forest with Dhaulagiri and Kaligandaki valley views!
Soon descend at Sauru, make sure further 300 meters the trail possible or not? Or there is any alternative little wooden bridge to cross or not? Otherwise you should cross the long bridge over Kaligandaki and take the dirt road on other side till Kokhethanti. But if the trail still possible you may continue to Kokhethanti.
DAY 21: KOKHETHANTI - KALOPANI/LETE 2530m/2480m (1 ½ HRS).
But there are two options; either you take a walk via Titi Lake (2690m) – Taklung – Kunjo – Chhoyo – turn to Lete or Kalopani. It takes about 5 -6 hrs and we marked as red/white. But I rather suggest you doing is as day trip without bag pack.
DAY 22: KALOPANI/LETE - DANA 1400m (6 - 7 HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
In Kalopani and Lete there are 4 exit points to the alternative beautiful trail as I mentioned above as well.
(I) Exit point between Mountain View hotel and Kalopani guest house.
(II) Exit point just after Kalopani guest house or in front of Angel guest house.
(III) Exit point at the public drinking water fountain between Lete and Kalopani.
(IV) Another exit point at Lete’s water fountain too, we did mark as red/white sign, but not any numbers.
When you joined on the trail so beautiful hiking through pine forest, drop to the Lete River, cross the middle suspension bridge soon you cross again the road and enter to the beautiful pristine lush forest trail! It leads till Ghumaune, again take a walk in the forest, and descend to Kaiku, 1.5 km on the road and reach to Ghasa 2125m.
Continue end of Ghasa, some minutes further to the suspension bridge, will see the red/white sign and arrow showing Tatopani, you descend via Pairothaplo – upper and lower Kopchepani – ascend up to Bhalebas 1750m, descends to Ghadpar village at the shore of Kaligandaki, cross the suspension bridge turn to Dana, o/n there.
DAY 23: DANA - TATOPANI (HOT SPRING) 1200m (4:00 HRS), RED/WHITE SIGNS.
You again turn to the bridge you crossed last night over Kaligandaki, and follow the NATT trails along the left bank of the rive. Today you will reach to Tatopani by morning that means you will have enough chances to choose the rooms there as you wished! Have a good lunch and after taking shower you just descend to the hot spring and enjoy it! Wonderful sitting into the pool after many day hiking in the Himalayas!
DAY 24: TWO OPTIONS:-
(a) Either; take a bus or jeep to Beni, jump on another bus and drive to Pokhara (2 + 4 = 6 hrs).
(b) Or, continue trekking up to Ghorepani-Poon hill and further…..up to you now.
The trekking trip is over! Will discuss regarding further activities eg: city sightseeing, Chitwan, Mountain flight, rafting etc.
"Please let me know if you are interested in any of these treks. I can help you arrange any treks or itineraries in Nepal. You can make any of these treks longer or shorter to fit your stay in Nepal."
contacts:
Prem Rai
P. O. Box No: 328
Lakeside 6, Pokhara
Nepal.
E-mails:
premmainarai@hotmail.com
premkulung12@gmail.com
Websites:
www.trekwithpremrai.blogspot.com
www.nepal-holiday.de
www.nepal-dia.de
www.facebook.com/prem.rai2
Cell Phones:
+977 9846306028
+977 9804115956
+977 9846168331
NAMASTE!
Prem Rai
P. O. Box No: 328
Lakeside 6, Pokhara
Nepal.
E-mails:
premmainarai@hotmail.com
premkulung12@gmail.com
Websites:
www.trekwithpremrai.blogspot.com
www.nepal-holiday.de
www.nepal-dia.de
www.facebook.com/prem.rai2
Cell Phones:
+977 9846306028
+977 9804115956
+977 9846168331
NAMASTE!
